This was not like arriving in another European city. This felt like landing on the last frontier before the North Pole. Just frozen land, sharp mountains, Arctic wind, and a feeling that nature was completely in charge.

Where is Svalbard?

Svalbard is a remote Arctic archipelago located between mainland Norway and the North Pole. The main settlement, Longyearbyen, is one of the northernmost towns in the world — surrounded by glaciers, fjords, mountains, polar bears, and extreme wilderness.

How to Get There

I travelled from London to Oslo, then Oslo to Longyearbyen. As the plane approaches Svalbard, the view changes completely — white mountains, frozen coastlines, and a landscape that feels almost untouched.

The main town is Longyearbyen, on the island of Spitsbergen, and this becomes the base for almost every adventure: snowmobiling, husky sledding, northern lights hunting, ice caves, glacier trips, boat expeditions, and summer wildlife cruises.

Most travellers reach Svalbard by flying from mainland Norway to Longyearbyen Airport (LYR). The common routes are through Oslo and Tromsø. Norwegian operates flights between Tromsø and Longyearbyen, and also lists Oslo–Longyearbyen options, while SAS lists Longyearbyen flights via Oslo and other Scandinavian connections.

From Longyearbyen Airport, the airport shuttle connects with arrivals and departures and stops at hotels and guesthouses. You can pay by card or Norwegian kroner — it does not accept foreign currency.

Visa information

Svalbard is outside the Schengen Area. If your nationality requires a Schengen visa, make sure you have a double-entry or multiple-entry visa for transit through mainland Norway.

Reindeer roaming completely wild on the Arctic tundra outside Longyearbyen.

Best Things to Do

Snowmobile expedition

Snowmobiling was one of the most powerful experiences I had. Travelling across the Arctic wilderness gives you a real sense of how vast and extreme this place is — frozen valleys, white mountains, endless snow, and silence.

For me, the most unforgettable part was the snowmobile expedition into the Arctic wilderness with Spitsbergen Adventures, guided by Beatriz. Having a good guide makes a huge difference here, because once you leave Longyearbyen, you are entering real polar-bear country — with changing weather, avalanche risk, ice conditions, and complete wilderness.

The best time for snowmobiling in Svalbard is usually March to mid-May. This is when you still have deep Arctic snow but also more daylight, giving you that cinematic blue-and-white landscape for filming. Visit Svalbard lists snowmobile safaris as one of the major winter experiences, including short beginner tours, full-day expeditions, east coast trips, ice cave trips, and even multi-day safaris.

For me, the most unforgettable part was the snowmobile expedition into the Arctic wilderness with Spitsbergen Adventures, guided by Beatriz. Having a good guide makes a huge difference here — once you leave Longyearbyen, you are entering real polar-bear country, with changing weather, avalanche risk, ice conditions, and complete wilderness.

Hundreds of kilometres of frozen wilderness — the snowmobile trails of Svalbard.

Husky sledding

There is something deeply emotional about travelling through the Arctic behind a team of dogs. The sound of the sled, the breathing of the huskies, the cold air, and the open wilderness create a feeling unlike anything else.

Northern Lights

For northern lights, the best season is darker: roughly October to February, especially during the Polar Night, when Svalbard can be dark even during daytime. Visit Svalbard notes that northern lights can sometimes be seen both day and night during Polar Night — making Svalbard one of the most extraordinary places on Earth to witness them.

The combination of darkness, isolation, and Arctic silence makes a northern lights sighting in Svalbard feel completely different from anywhere else. There are no city lights, no crowds — just the aurora moving above frozen mountains.

Where to Stay in Longyearbyen

Longyearbyen has hotels, guesthouses, apartments, cabins, and wilderness-style stays. I stayed in Gjestehuset 102, which is perfect if you have a group — it offers a whole flat with kitchen and common area, ideal for basing an expedition, and falls under budget.

For individual comfort stays: Radisson Blu Polar Hotel, Svalbard Hotell Polfareren, and Svalbard Hotell The Vault. For budget-friendly options: Mary-Ann's Polarrigg and Coal Miners' Cabins. All can be found via Booking.com.

Summer Boat Trips

Svalbard is not only a winter destination. From early spring until late November or early December, there are boat trips from Longyearbyen — including RIB trips, glacier safaris, bird cliffs, fjords, wildlife watching, and trips toward places like Pyramiden or Barentsburg depending on season and conditions. In summer the ice melts and it becomes much easier to spot polar bears from boats and ships.

Northern Lights

For northern lights, the best season is darker: roughly October to February, especially during the Polar Night, when Svalbard can be dark even during daytime. Visit Svalbard says northern lights can sometimes be seen both day and night during Polar Night — a completely unique Arctic phenomenon that makes Svalbard one of the most dramatic places on Earth to witness the aurora.

Where to Stay in Longyearbyen

Longyearbyen has hotels, guesthouses, apartments, cabins, and wilderness-style stays to suit every budget and group size.

I stayed in Gjestehuset 102, which is perfect if you have a group — it offers a whole flat with kitchen and common area, ideal for basing your expedition, and falls comfortably in the budget category.

For individual comfort stays: Radisson Blu Polar Hotel, Svalbard Hotell Polfareren, and Svalbard Hotell The Vault. For budget-friendly options: Mary-Ann's Polarrigg and Coal Miners' Cabins. All of these can be found and booked via Booking.com.

Summer Boat Trips

Svalbard is not only a winter destination. From early spring until late November or early December, there are boat trips from Longyearbyen — including RIB trips, glacier safaris, bird cliffs, fjords, wildlife watching, and trips toward Pyramiden or Barentsburg depending on season and conditions. In summer, the ice melts and it becomes much easier to spot polar bears from boats and expedition ships.

Is Svalbard Safe?

The biggest safety issue is nature — polar bears, extreme weather, avalanches, and remote terrain. Never walk outside Longyearbyen without a guide and safety equipment.

Final Thoughts

Svalbard is remote, expensive, cold, powerful, and sometimes unpredictable. But that is exactly what makes it special. Some places change the way you see the world. Svalbard is one of those places.

The Amazon does not reveal itself all at once. It slowly pulls you in. First the river, then the heat, then the sounds, then the movement in the grass, the monkeys in the trees, and the sudden feeling that you are not just observing nature — you are inside it.

My journey took me through two very different worlds: the open wetlands of the Pampas and the dense rainforest of the Selva near Madidi National Park. One was full of visible wildlife from the boat. The other felt deeper, darker, and more mysterious.

Entering the Selva — the moment the jungle closes in from every direction and the town disappears behind you.

Where is the Bolivian Amazon?

The Bolivian Amazon is in the northern part of Bolivia, where the Andes fall away into rivers, rainforest, wetlands, and tropical wilderness. For most travellers, the gateway is Rurrenabaque, a small town on the Beni River — the base for tours into both the Pampas and the jungle.

Pampas vs Jungle: What is the Difference?

The Pampas

The Pampas are open wetlands and river systems explored mainly by boat. Because the landscape is more open, wildlife is often visible along the riverbanks. This is where you have the strongest chance of seeing:

• Caimans in the water
• Capybaras on the riverbanks
• Monkeys in the trees
• Pink river dolphins
• Spectacular sunsets on the river

Left: A spectacled caiman who lives under the camp kitchen. Right: A squirrel monkey in the riverside trees.

The Jungle / Selva

The jungle is a completely different experience. Here the forest is dense, the light is lower, the sounds are louder. You may not always see large animals, but you feel the presence of the rainforest around you. The Pampas show you the Amazon from the river. The jungle makes you feel swallowed by it.

On the boat through the open Pampas wetlands — wildlife appears from every direction along the riverbanks.

How to Get There

Start from La Paz. From there, fly or travel by road to Rurrenabaque. The easiest option is to fly with EcoJet — around 40 minutes direct. Book flights in advance directly via the EcoJet website, as you may not find them on other booking platforms. In my opinion, November and December are the cheapest months if you book well in advance.

There are road options too — private hire or group taxis from La Paz to Rurrenabaque — but be warned: the journey takes around 12 hours, passes through high altitude mountain roads, and the altitude change can make you feel very unwell on the way down. I'll be honest — I was sick on the road. If you are carrying camera gear or have limited days, fly.

Best Things to Do in the Pampas

Look for caimans

The Pampas are caiman territory. You may see them resting near the water, partly hidden in the grass, or watching from the river — sometimes only the eyes visible above the surface. It reminds you that the river is alive.

Pink river dolphins

One of the most special encounters is the pink river dolphin. In the same dark water where caimans watch, dolphins appear suddenly, break the surface, and disappear again. Completely unexpected. Completely unforgettable.

Sunset on the river

Sunset in the Pampas is one of the most cinematic moments of the journey. As the sun drops, the river changes colour, silhouettes of trees appear against the sky, and the sounds of the wetlands become stronger.

Best Things to Do in the Jungle

Night walk

A night walk in the jungle is one of the most intense Amazon experiences. Once the sun goes down, the forest changes completely. The sounds become louder, the darkness heavier, and your torch starts revealing insects, spiders, frogs, and movement you cannot explain.

Learn from local guides

Without a good guide, the jungle is just a wall of green. With a good guide, it becomes a living world full of stories — plants used for medicine, animal tracks, survival skills, and the deep relationship between local communities and the rainforest.

How Many Days Do You Need?

For the Pampas alone, 3 days is enough. For the Selva, 3 to 4 days. If you want both — plan 5 to 7 days. If you are filming or making travel content, the extra days give you time for weather changes, travel delays, and stronger storytelling.

My Experience

I booked through Viator with Mashaquipe Tours — a group tour combining both Pampas and Selva. As soon as we reached the river and got into the boat, the environment changed. The heat, the water, the wildlife, and the open landscape made it feel like we had entered another world.

The Bolivian Pampas

My first part was into the Bolivian Pampas. We travelled by road from Rurrenabaque, then continued by boat for 30 minutes into the wetlands. Almost immediately, the Amazon started revealing itself. Caimans rested near the riverbanks, birds flew above the water, turtles lined up on fallen branches, and capybaras moved quietly through the grass.

For the next two days, my base was a lodge in the middle of the wetlands — surrounded by river on one side and forest on the other. During the day, the Pampas felt alive and colourful. But at night, everything changed. The same river became dark, silent, and intense. When we searched for caimans after sunset, their eyes reflected back from the water like tiny lights in the darkness. That was the moment I realised this was not a zoo, not a safari park, and not a controlled environment. This was real wilderness.

One of the most unforgettable moments was swimming near the pink river dolphins. At first, it felt unbelievable — the idea of entering Amazon waters where caimans and other creatures also live. But the dolphins appeared, calm and mysterious, moving through the brown water like ghosts of the river. It was one of those rare travel moments where fear, excitement, and wonder all happen at the same time.

The Pampas also gave me some of the most cinematic scenes of the whole journey: golden sunsets over the wetlands, birds flying across the sky, boats cutting through the river, and the sounds of the Amazon echoing into the night.

Into the Selva

After the open wetlands of the Pampas, my journey moved deeper — into the Selva, the real jungle. This was a completely different feeling. In the Pampas, the wildlife came to you. In the jungle, you had to slow down, listen, and understand the forest. Every tree, every sound, every footprint, every broken branch could mean something. The jungle was not open and obvious. It was hidden, layered, and powerful.

We entered the rainforest near Madidi National Park, one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. The air was heavy. The paths were narrow. The forest floor was alive with insects. The trees rose high above us, blocking much of the light. This was the Amazon in its raw form.

During the day, we learned about medicinal plants, jungle survival, animal tracks, and the relationship between local communities and the forest. But the most intense experience came at night. Walking through the Amazon jungle after dark is completely different from walking during the day. Your senses become sharper. Every sound feels closer. Every movement in the leaves makes you stop. You hear insects, frogs, birds, and things you cannot identify. The darkness feels alive. That night walk gave me the feeling that I was no longer just visiting the jungle — I was inside its world.

Later, the journey continued toward one of the most beautiful and hidden places in the region: the macaw cliffs. After travelling through rivers and forest, we reached the area where macaws gather around the clay cliffs. Watching these colourful birds fly across the Amazon landscape felt like seeing the jungle reveal one of its secrets.

The Bolivian Amazon was not just one experience. It was a journey through different worlds. You can watch my complete 5-episode magical journey on my YouTube channel.

Final Thoughts

The Bolivian Amazon is one of the most unforgettable places I have ever travelled. The Pampas and the Selva are completely different, but together they show the real power of the Amazon. One shows you the animals from the river. The other makes you feel the forest from the inside. It was not just a trip into the Amazon. It was a journey into a world that felt alive, ancient, and watching.

For this journey, I wanted to experience something deeper than normal sightseeing. I wanted to understand Japan through its warrior culture. Not just by reading about it. Not just by watching it. But by stepping into it.

So my day began not in central Tokyo, but with a train journey to Kawasaki — where I was about to enter the world of sumo.

Taking the Train from Tokyo to Kawasaki

From Tokyo, I caught the train to Kawasaki for a very different kind of cultural experience. Kawasaki sits between Tokyo and Yokohama, and it is easy to reach by train. But for me, this was not just a simple city transfer. It felt like the beginning of a journey into one of Japan's oldest sporting traditions.

I was heading to a sumo arena that had been used until recently, up to 2022. That made the place feel even more real. This was not just a tourist stage created for visitors. It was a space connected to actual sumo history, training and competition.

When I arrived, I was introduced to my guide, Masao, who welcomed me and helped explain the experience. He introduced me to the sumo wrestlers, known as rikishi, and from that moment the whole atmosphere changed. I was no longer just a traveller watching from the outside. I was about to step into the world of sumo.

Entering the Sumo Arena

The arena had a powerful feeling. Even before the wrestlers entered, you could feel that this was a place built around discipline, strength and tradition. Sumo is not just a sport in Japan. It is connected to ritual, respect, history and a way of life that has been passed down for generations.

Inside the Kawasaki sumo arena — used for real training and competition until 2022.

Then the rikishi entered. The first wrestler was Nikishi, who had recently retired because of an injury. Even though he was retired, his presence still carried the strength and discipline of a professional wrestler. The second was Oki, one of the youngest contenders, full of energy and power.

Seeing them up close was completely different from watching sumo on a screen. Their size was impressive, but what stood out even more was their control, balance and calmness. Before the actual demonstration, they began with stretching. This was one of the first things that surprised me — many people may think sumo is only about size and pushing power, but watching their warm-up showed how much flexibility, preparation and body control are involved.

Every movement had purpose. Every stretch showed discipline. Every step reminded me that sumo is far more technical than it looks.

Learning About Sumo from the Rikishi

Masao explained the basics of sumo and helped me understand what was happening inside the ring. The rikishi demonstrated movements, stances and techniques — how wrestlers prepare before a fight, how they position their bodies, and how balance plays a major role in the sport.

At first glance, sumo may look simple: two wrestlers push each other until one is forced out of the ring or touches the ground. But once you see it closely, you realise it is much more than strength. It is about timing. It is about footwork. It is about centre of gravity. It is about using your opponent's movement against them.

The ring may look small, but once you step inside it, it feels intense. There is nowhere to hide. Everything happens quickly. And then came the moment I did not expect — they asked me to wear the sumo dress and fight them.

Stepping into the ring — about to find out exactly how strong a rikishi really is.

Fighting a Sumo Wrestler

Wearing the traditional sumo outfit was already a strange and unforgettable experience. Suddenly, I was not just watching the tradition — I was part of it. Then I stepped into the ring.

Facing a rikishi is one of those moments where your confidence disappears very quickly. From outside the ring, you may think, "Maybe I can push him a little." But once you stand in front of a trained sumo wrestler, you immediately understand the difference. Their power is unbelievable. Their balance is almost impossible to break. Trying to move them felt like trying to move a wall.

But what made the experience special was not only the fight itself. It was the humour, the respect and the energy of the moment. The rikishi allowed me to experience the sport in a safe and fun way, while still showing me how strong and technical sumo really is. It was one of the most humbling and entertaining moments of my journey in Japan.

I came to watch sumo. But Japan made me fight a sumo wrestler.

Chanko Nabe: The Sumo Meal

After the physical challenge, we shared a traditional sumo-style meal: chanko nabe. Chanko nabe is a hotpot stew closely associated with sumo wrestlers — usually made with large quantities of protein, vegetables and broth, designed to be hearty, nutritious and filling.

Chanko nabe — the traditional hotpot that fuels sumo wrestlers.

After seeing the wrestlers train and feeling their strength in the ring, this meal made perfect sense. Sumo is not only about what happens inside the arena. It is a whole lifestyle built around training, eating, discipline and routine. The hotpot was warm, comforting and full of flavour — more than just food after an activity. It felt like part of the sumo culture itself.

Sitting down after the match and eating chanko nabe gave the experience a human feeling. The wrestlers were no longer only powerful figures inside the ring. They were people sharing their tradition, their food and their world with us. That is what made this experience unforgettable.

With Nikishi and Oki outside the Kawasaki sumo stable — tradition, strength, and a lot of laughter.

Visiting Sengakuji Temple: The Graveyard of the 47 Ronin

After the sumo experience in Kawasaki, I travelled back towards Tokyo and visited Sengakuji Temple. This was a completely different kind of warrior story.

Sengakuji Temple is famous as the resting place of the 47 Ronin, one of Japan's most legendary stories of loyalty, revenge and honour. These were samurai who became ronin — masterless warriors — after their lord was forced to take his own life. They waited patiently, planned carefully, and later carried out one of the most famous acts of loyalty in Japanese history, before facing their own fate with the same discipline they had lived by.

Lighting incense at Sengakuji Temple, the resting place of the 47 Ronin.

Standing at the temple, surrounded by incense smoke and quiet visitors paying respect, the energy felt completely different from the sumo arena. Where Kawasaki was loud, physical and full of strength, Sengakuji was still, reflective and heavy with history — two sides of the same warrior culture, one about power, the other about honour and sacrifice.

Ramen: Refuelling Like a Local

By this point in the day, after sumo, chanko nabe, and a long walk through Tokyo's backstreets, it was time for ramen — and Japan never disappoints here.

A local ramen shop in Tokyo — exactly the kind of place you stumble into and never forget.

We found a small, unassuming ramen shop tucked into a side street — the kind of place with no English menu, just steam, noise, and the smell of broth that has been simmering for hours. A bowl of rich tonkotsu ramen, topped with nori, chashu pork, spring onion and a soft-boiled egg, arrived alongside a small bowl of rice.

Tonkotsu ramen — rich, comforting, and exactly what you need after a day of sumo training.

After a day spent training like a warrior, this felt like the most honest reward Japan could offer. Simple, warm, and made with care.

Samurai and Ninja Museum, Asakusa

The final part of the day took me to Asakusa, to the Samurai and Ninja Museum — a place dedicated to the armour, weapons and training methods of Japan's most iconic warriors.

Authentic samurai armour — every plate, cord and tassel telling part of a much larger story.

Walking through the museum, surrounded by genuine samurai armour, you start to understand just how much engineering, status and meaning went into every piece. The lacquered plates, the silk cords, the iron facemasks — all of it built for both protection and presentation. Samurai were warriors, but they were also symbols of rank, loyalty and discipline.

One of the highlights of the visit was holding a real katana. I had wanted to hold one properly since arriving in Japan — and I found one.

Holding a real katana — the weight and balance are nothing like what you'd expect.

The weight of it surprised me. It is not heavy in a clumsy way — it is balanced, precise, and feels like it was made for a very specific kind of movement. Holding it gave me a small sense of the discipline that must have taken years to master.

Then came the part I had been waiting for — ninja training. Dressed in traditional black training clothes, we were taught basic sword stances, movement and posture by instructors at the museum.

Ninja training at the Samurai Ninja Museum — stance, balance, and a lot of respect for how hard this actually is.

Holding the sword in the correct stance, even for a few minutes, was far harder than it looked. Your arms, shoulders and legs all have to work together, and the precision required completely changes how you see samurai films and choreography. This was not just a costume photo opportunity — it was a genuine, if brief, glimpse into centuries of martial discipline.

Final Thoughts

This was one of the most physically and culturally immersive days of the entire Brown Compass journey. In a single day, I went from fighting a professional sumo wrestler, to eating the meal that fuels their entire lifestyle, to standing at the grave of Japan's most legendary samurai, to holding a real katana and training like a ninja.

Japan does not ask you to choose between its ancient past and its modern present — it lets you experience both, often within the same afternoon. For anyone wanting to understand Japan beyond the temples and the neon lights, stepping into its warrior culture — even just for a day — is something I will never forget.